Wild Places
The Whitmore Colony
I always wanted to be an insurance loss adjuster. That is not true, but it is what I tell people when they ask how I ended up in this line of work. Eight years ago, I started processing wildfire claims for a regional firm handling the Highland and Moray districts, and I have been doing it ever since.
I always wanted to be an insurance loss adjuster. That is not true, but it is what I tell people when they ask how I ended up in this line of work. Eight years ago, I started processing wildfire claims for a regional firm handling the Highland and Moray districts, and I have been doing it ever since. The work is precise.
You take catastrophe - a lightning strike that burns through 120 hectares of Scots pine and commercial forestry, a structural loss, a liability dispute over a controlled burn that was not controlled - and convert it into columns on a form: cause of loss, estimated reinstatement value, exposure category, wind-channel rating, fire-behaviour indices used in premium calculations. I am good at it because I understand that the job is documentation, not feeling. When anomalous will do, I do not use unsettling. I have never seen the fires themselves.
I process the aftermath from my desk in Edinburgh. Photographs, loss reports, contractors' assessments. The closest I get to the burn sites is the annual 10-day trip I take every late September, between the close of the main wildfire season and the opening of the November filing window. I drive north on the A9 and then take the A939 through the eastern Highlands, set up camp in the upper River Findhorn drainage and spend 10 days fishing its side channels and tributary burns.
Then I drive back to Edinburgh and return to work. I have done this eight times. I have never brought anyone with me. This year, my younger brother, Callum, is in the passenger seat.
He is 32, seven years younger than me, and he is sitting with his window cracked open, one arm resting on the door frame, watching the Highland country unfold around us. We left Edinburgh at 6.00 am, and it is past noon now. The sun is high and pale overhead, and the temperature is climbing as we leave the busier roads behind and cross into the open moorland. Heather and blaeberry spread across the slopes on both sides of the road, broken by peat hags, bog myrtle, scattered Scots pine and wind-shaped birch. Granite and schist show through on the higher ridges. In the distance, I can see the pale, exposed shingle and peat margins of Lochindorb catching the light.
Callum has not said much since we left the city. He is a former Forestry and Land Scotland ranger, dismissed two years ago after filing an unauthorised controlled-burn risk assessment outside his remit. He thought the assessment was necessary. His supervisor thought it was insubordination.
Callum lost that argument and now runs outdoor-skills courses from Inverness through a business he registered as Northern Fieldcraft. He is good at it. He is calm under physical pressure, technically fluent in terrain and weather, and capable of the particular stillness that comes from years spent working alone in country where no one is coming to help you.
The reason he has not said much is the same reason he is in the Hilux at all. There is a dispute between us. Money, and a property issue involving our mother Margaret's house in Inverness. Something that began three years ago and was never fully resolved.
We do not talk about it. We have not talked about it since the argument that ended with me hanging up the phone and not calling him back for six months. Margaret pushed for this trip. She did not ask us to resolve anything.
She asked us to go somewhere together and remain in the same place for more than an afternoon. Callum agreed because he had a reason of his own. I agreed because I ran out of ways to say no.
He breaks the silence beyond Tomintoul, pointing through the window at a line of high ground running roughly parallel to the road.
"That is the Dava Moor escarpment," he says. "You can see where the granite and schist control the ridge structure. See how the ground steps down? Ice and later peat formation exposed the harder bands and left the softer material in the hollows."
I glance at the ridge and nod.
I know he is filling the silence that would otherwise be occupied by the property dispute, and I do not object. If we are going to spend 10 days in the same camp, geology is safer than money.
"The whole landscape has been worked over by ice," he continues, warming to the subject. "Then the peat filled the poorly drained ground. That is why you get the dry ridges above the bog and the lochs sitting in the lower basins."
"Makes sense," I say.
He keeps talking, pointing out features as we drive: how the heather grows differently on the wetter, north-facing slopes; the elevation bands where wind-shaped birch gives way to scattered Scots pine; old fire scars visible as lighter patches on the distant ridge lines. I have processed three wildfire liability claims originating in the Lochindorb and Dava Moor corridor during the past five years. I know the terrain abstractly, by exposure category, wind-channel rating and predicted fire-behaviour indices.
We reach the turn-off for the upper River Findhorn drainage at about 3.00 pm. The surfaced road ends and an unmaintained forestry track begins: approximately 18 kilometres of loose stone, peat-softened ruts and dried burn crossings winding into the low hills east of the river. I shift into low gear and let the vehicle grind along the ridge line, its suspension working over the rough surface and dust rising behind us in a long pale plume.
Callum braces one hand against the dashboard and does not complain about the ride.
The camp is on a flat gravel bank above a side channel of the upper Findhorn, backed by willow and birch beginning to turn yellow in the September light. The river is low and clear, moving slowly over rounded stones, its sound just audible above the tick of the cooling engine when I switch off. I have camped here eight times, and I know exactly where everything goes.
I set up my tent on the same patch of gravel I always use, a place that is level and far enough from the trees to avoid the worst of the morning condensation. I peg the corners, thread the poles and secure the flysheet. The whole process takes perhaps 10 minutes. When I finish, I look up and see that Callum has already pitched his own tent on the far side of the gravel bank, near the willows.
He did not ask where to put it. He simply chose a place and did it. We do not discuss the sleeping arrangements or the layout of the camp.
We unload the gear from the Hilux: the cool box, camping stove, folding chairs, fishing rods in their canvas sleeves. We arrange everything in the space between the two tents. Callum fills a collapsible water container from the side channel, testing the current first to ensure it is running clean. I start a fire in the ring, using the same stones I have used every year and adding several from the riverbank to fill gaps where the old ones have shifted.
By the time the sun begins to sink behind the ridge to the west, the fire is established and we are sitting in the folding chairs with plates balanced on our knees. I made sandwiches before we left Edinburgh. Ham and mature Cheddar on wholemeal bread. Nothing elaborate. We eat without talking much.
The moor cools quickly after sunset. The temperature falls by 10 C in the first hour, and I put on my microfleece and zip it to my throat. Callum watches the fire, his empty plate on his lap and his hands wrapped around a mug of tea brewed in a battered camping kettle. The flames throw shadows across his face. I can see the fine lines at the corners of his eyes, the weathering left by years of squinting across open country.
He looks tired, but not uncomfortable. This is his element. He has been in places like this a hundred times, perhaps more.
"Thanks for letting me come," he says after a while, without looking at me.
I do not know what to say, so I nod. The truth is that I did not let him come. Margaret arranged it and I had no good reason to refuse, but I do not say that.
"It is good country," I say instead, which is true and commits me to nothing.
He nods and drinks his tea. The silence settles back between us, but it is different now, less strained. The fire cracks and a log shifts, sending up a small shower of sparks that rises and vanishes into the darkness above the flames. We remain there for another hour, saying little and watching the fire burn down.
When only coals remain, I stand and cover them with earth, ensuring that everything is out. Callum rinses the plates and mugs in the side channel and packs them into the food box. We say goodnight without ceremony and go to our separate tents.
Through the fabric wall, I can hear Callum moving in his tent. It is a sound I have never heard at this camp before. I lie awake for a while listening to it before I sleep.
I am up before first light and on the water by the time the sky pales over the eastern ridge line.
I work the side channels and tributary burns with the methodical patience that comes from doing the same thing eight years in succession: casting into the same pools, reading the same current, knowing where the fish hold without having to think about it. Callum fishes beside me without needing instruction. He has the particular stillness of someone who has spent years working alone in country where no one is coming to help. He moves quietly through the willows, keeping his line clear of the branches and checking his knots without being asked.
We do not talk much. The silence between us on the water is different from the silence in the vehicle during the drive north. It is not uncomfortable. It is only silence.
By mid-afternoon we are back at camp. I clean the two fish I have kept and wrap them in foil with butter and lemon from the cool box. Callum builds the fire while I prepare the food. He is good at fires, the kind of person who does not use lighting fluid or wadded newspaper. He arranges the kindling in a neat pyramid, lights it with one match, and the fire catches and burns cleanly.
We eat the fish beside the fire as the sun drops behind the western ridge line. The light turns orange and then purple, and the temperature falls. I put on my microfleece and pour myself another mug of tea from the battered kettle resting at the edge of the coals.
Callum reaches into his pack and takes out a folded sheet of paper. He opens it on the ground between us and aligns it with the ridge visible to the south. It is a 1979 Ordnance Survey sheet, printed on heavy cream paper, with contour lines, spot heights and grid references. It has been annotated by the Forestry Commission in faded red and blue pencil.
I read the date in the corner and look at him across the fire.
While searching historical fire-management records for material to use on his courses, he says, he found a reference to a fire-weather and peat-drying research station identified in internal Forestry Commission records as Whitmore Station. It was built in 1972 on a saddle between two low ridges east of Lochindorb, within what is now the Highland council area. Through the 1970s and 1980s, it collected barometric, wind, fuel-moisture and smoke-column data during controlled moorland and forestry burns.
The official closure record was dated 1993 and cited budget reallocation. There was no later mention in any Forestry Commission record he could access, nor in the modern public files of Forestry and Land Scotland.
He taps the saddle on the map with one finger. He wants photographs of whatever remains of the instrumentation, he says. A concrete example of how the Forestry Commission monitored remote terrain before satellite telemetry. The kind of material that would be useful on his courses. About two hours from a walkers' access point he has already located beside a deer gate on an unmaintained track east of our camp. We could be there and back before noon.
I study the map for a long time. I have processed three wildfire liability claims originating in the Dava Moor and Lochindorb corridor during the past five years. I know this terrain abstractly, in the way a loss adjuster knows terrain: exposure category, wind-channel rating, predicted fire-behaviour indices used in premium calculations. I have never had a specific reason to go there.
I tell him we can look, subject to daylight and the condition of the access, and that we will turn back at any point when continuing ceases to make sense. I say it in the voice I use when I have already decided to do something.
Callum nods and folds the map along its original creases. He does not ask why I agreed. He takes another drink of tea and looks into the fire.
We sit without speaking for a while longer. The fire burns down to coals and the stars appear overhead, sharp and clear. I can hear the river moving through the willows 15 metres away, constant and low.
Before entering my tent, I check the weather on my mobile phone. A low-pressure system is moving in from the Atlantic and is expected to reach the eastern Highlands by late afternoon on 23 September 2025. I study the forecast, then put the phone away. We will be back before noon. I do not mention the weather to Callum.
I fold the annotated Ordnance Survey sheet and hand it to him across the fire. He slips it into his chest pocket. We agree to leave at first light without discussing it further.
We leave camp at first light in Callum's 2020 Toyota Hilux, fitted with a bull bar and a Garmin inReach Mini 2 mounted on the dashboard. He bought the satellite messenger three years ago after a close call in the Cairngorms and now carries it on every trip beyond mobile coverage.
I understand the logic. If something goes wrong here, nobody is coming unless you can tell them where you are. Margaret is expecting a preset check-in at 1 pm. If it does not arrive, she will contact Police Scotland, which can coordinate with mountain rescue.
The unmaintained forestry track east of the camp runs for about 18 kilometres over loose stone and dried burn crossings. Callum drives the whole distance in low gear, the Hilux grinding along the ridge above the upper River Findhorn drainage.
The track is not bad exactly, but it is not maintained. It consists of two tyre ruts through heather and bog myrtle, with a raised strip of coarse grass scraping the underside every few hundred metres. I watch the odometer turn and try to picture the terrain we will cross once the track ends. The sun rises behind us, throwing our shadow ahead along the track.
Far below to the north-east, Lochindorb lies pale and flat, its water low for late September and its margins ringed with exposed shingle and peat that catch the early light. From this distance, the palest stretches resemble frost. I processed two claims involving properties near that country after a moorland fire crossed a minor road in 2021.
The claimants were angry about the settlement timetable. At the time, I remember thinking that anyone who built that close to dry fuel in a wind corridor had made a decision whose consequences ought to have been understood. I watch the loch through the passenger window and say nothing.
Callum is quiet as well, which is normal for him on a drive like this. He keeps both hands on the wheel and his eyes on the track, inspecting the ruts and choosing a route through the washouts where winter water has cut deep grooves across the surface. Every so often he glances at the navigation unit on the dashboard to confirm our course, but mostly he drives.
At the walkers' access point, a broad patch of hard ground where the track ends beside a deer gate, there is no sign. We shoulder our packs and begin walking south along the ridge line.
I have packed lightly: water, a first-aid kit, an Ordnance Survey map matching Callum's, a torch I do not expect to need and the small notebook I always carry for field observations. Callum has the same, in addition to his Nikon Z6 II and a telephoto lens in a padded case attached to his pack.
The terrain is open and exposed. Heather, blaeberry and bog myrtle cover the lower slopes, giving way to peat hags and bare granite and schist along the upper ridge. Occasional Scots pines and birches have been bent permanently eastwards by the prevailing winds.
The route is not marked, but it does not need to be. The ridge itself is the route, running south towards the grid reference Callum copied from the 1979 sheet. He keeps the map folded in his chest pocket and stops at each high point to orientate himself, comparing the annotated contours with the visible ground.
I recognise the habit from his ranger years. You do not need to check the map every 15 minutes on a ridge walk, but you do it anyway because the one time you fail to check is the time you miss a branching spur or walk past a survey marker.
I walk and watch the sky. The route takes two hours.
The ground does what Callum's map says it will do. We do not become lost. We do not talk much. I am conscious that the western sky has the particular quality of light I associate with incoming weather: a flat grey haze along the horizon that was not there when we left camp. It is still only mid-morning, however, and the low-pressure system is not expected until late afternoon. I say nothing about it.
My calves are burning by the time we reach the first high point. I am not unfit exactly, but I spend most of my working life behind a desk, and two hours of steady climbing remind me of that.
Callum appears unaffected. He moves like someone accustomed to this kind of ground, his breathing even and his pace steady. We stop twice for water. At the second stop, Callum checks the map again and points south-east towards a notch between two low ridges.
"That is the saddle," he says. "Another 40 minutes, perhaps."
I nod and drink again. My pack feels heavier than it did at the access point, which makes no sense because nothing inside it has changed weight. I adjust the straps anyway and continue.
On the second ridge, at a saddle between low outcrops of grey granite and banded schist, Callum stops and points south-east.
"There."
About 800 metres away, on a flat bench cut into the hillside above the tree line, stand three prefabricated structures. They have flat roofs and metal sides, and their long axes lie parallel to the ridge. Even at that distance, the main building - the largest, a long rectangle - looks wrong.
At first, I do not have words for it. I stand and stare, attempting to determine what I am seeing. The metal cladding is dark in a way inconsistent with normal rust or oxidation. The other two structures are lighter, the expected grey-silver of weathered galvanised steel. The main building is almost black, the darkness uneven and subtly textured even from 800 metres.
Callum has his Nikon Z6 II and telephoto lens out before I complete my assessment. I hear the shutter clicking rapidly as he works through a sequence of exposures, zooming in and out and bracketing for the light.
"You seeing this?" he asks, his eye still against the viewfinder.
"Yes," I say. "I am seeing it. It does not look like rust."
"No."
"It does not."
I run through my standard liability calculation: distance, terrain, remaining daylight, known hazards. We have two hours of walking behind us, which means two hours back to the Hilux. The bench is about 800 metres to the south-east, adding perhaps 40 minutes to the round trip if the ground is sound. That puts us back at the vehicle in the early afternoon, comfortably ahead of the weather system I have been tracking all morning.
Known hazards include the buildings themselves, which are more than 30 years old and probably structurally compromised. There may be wildlife. There are the normal risks of walking across open Highland ground. Nothing I cannot work with.
"We can take a look," I say.
Callum lowers the camera and looks at me. I see something in his expression that I cannot identify with confidence. Relief, perhaps, or something near it.
"Yes," he says. "All right."
We descend from the saddle towards the access track. The dark surface of the main building remains visible ahead, and I watch it while we walk, unable to find a category for what I am seeing.
The access track to Whitmore Station descends from the saddle in a long curve, dropping towards the bench through switchbacks cut into the hillside. Callum walks ahead of me, his camera hanging from a Peak Design Slide strap across his body, his boots crunching on loose stone. I follow several paces behind, watching the ground ahead.
The track levels as we approach the station perimeter. A steel vehicle gate blocks it, a heavy tubular frame secured to two thick wooden posts darkened by age. The posts appear to have stood there for decades, their timber dried and weathered by Highland wind and rain.
The gate is secured with an Abloy PL362 high-security padlock.
I recognise the type. It is a lock used where somebody genuinely does not want unauthorised access. The body shows no corrosion. It is new, or recently replaced.
I stop and inspect it more closely. The metal is bright and the finish clean. This is not a lock that has hung here since Whitmore Station officially closed in 1993. It was installed recently. Very recently.
A standard Forestry Commission closure notice is bolted to the gate's crossbar. The paper has yellowed inside its weathered laminate and the print has faded, though it remains legible. Beneath it, fixed with two stainless-steel screws, is a second notice.
This one is different. It bears no government branding. It is a sheet of ordinary printer paper in a laminate sleeve, and the laminate is newer and clearer than the one above.
The notice reads: "Warning: Structural integrity compromised. Unstable ground. No entry."
Callum stops beside me and reads it.
"Looks like standard wording," he says. "I have seen language like this in internal documents. It restricts access without requiring the work that comes with a formal hazard designation. Keeps people out without generating more paperwork."
He studies the notice for another moment and shrugs.
"Bureaucratic boilerplate."
He moves to step around the gate.
I say nothing. I am looking at the mounting hardware on the padlock hasp. The hex-headed galvanised bolts are new, their zinc coating still bright against the dark wood. The posts have stood here for decades, but the bolts have not. Somebody drove them into the timber recently - not years ago, but months ago or less.
I look from the gate to the vegetation on either side. No fence continues from either post. There is only the gate across the track, with open heather and bog myrtle on both sides. It does not physically block anything. A person can walk around it in five seconds.
The gate is not a barrier. It is a signal.
Someone has fitted a new high-security lock to a gate more than 30 years old to signal that somebody still knows this place exists. Somebody is still paying attention to it.
I do not say any of this aloud. I look once more at the bright zinc threads against the old timber, then follow Callum around the gate through the heather. We continue down the access track.
About 12 metres beyond the gate, I notice the silence.
In late September, on this ground and at this elevation, there should be insect noise: flies among the heather, beetles clicking sporadically in the dry stems, the background texture of a Highland afternoon, the kind of sound one does not consciously notice until it is absent.
There is none.
The silence is total. It has a specific quality. It is not the silence of a place where nothing has ever lived. It is the silence of a place where something was present and stopped.
Like the air after a gunshot, or the moment after someone breaks off halfway through a sentence.
I do not mention it to Callum. I note it and continue walking.
We round the final bend in the access track and the whole bench of Whitmore Station comes into view.
Three buildings stand on a flat platform cut into the hillside and backed by a retaining wall of stacked granite and schist. The equipment shed is on the left, a collapsed structure on the right and the main building in the centre.
Its surface is dark. I saw that from the ridge, but at close range it is different.
The texture is not flat. It is not uniform. It is not anything for which I have a name. The darkness appears to possess depth, as if layered, as if it is something more than rust or oxidation.
I stop for a moment to look, then continue.
Whitmore Station occupies a level bench approximately 24 metres wide, cut into the hillside and supported by a dry-stone retaining wall about 3 metres high. The main research building stands in the centre, with the smaller equipment shed to its left and a collapsed, rusted steel frame to the right. The frame probably housed a generator once.
The equipment shed's door hangs from one hinge, open to the sky. The other structure has been down for a long time. Its frame is sunk into the ground at one end, its metal oxidised to the colour of dried blood.
The main building is approximately 15 metres long and 6 metres wide. Its metal cladding is covered entirely by the dark, mottled discolouration I saw from the ridge. At close range, it is clear that this is not a surface stain. It has dimension.
The texture is slightly raised and irregular, almost embossed in a pattern of immense complexity. It is neither geometric nor random, but something between the two.
I reach out and press my fingertip to the wall.
Beneath my touch, the texture shifts.
Not dramatically. There is no sudden movement and no sound, only a fraction of a millimetre of lateral displacement as individual elements adjust around the point of contact and then become still.
I hold my finger there for a moment, then withdraw it. I inspect the fingertip. There is no visible residue and no mark.
I look at the wall. It is still.
I say nothing to Callum, who is photographing the building from one corner, framing the full elevation against the low ridges around Lochindorb.
What I touched without knowing it was the exterior colony of Pyrocharis tenebris, a char-mimicking beetle first recorded after the Scottish forest fires of 1976. Subsequent entomological literature described isolated populations in post-fire debris within Scottish forestry sites. The adult beetle is approximately 8 millimetres long, brown-black, with a flattened dorsal profile and a chitinous surface whose texture mimics the grain of charred timber with a fidelity that, in isolation, is essentially perfect.
The colony at Whitmore Station has been breeding within the undisturbed structural timbers of the main building for decades. No entomologist has documented Pyrocharis tenebris at this density or exhibiting the degree of behavioural coordination developed here: a synchronised sensitivity to pressure, compounded across generations, whose collective threshold is lower than any instrument in the station can measure.
They have been responding to the falling air pressure since before Callum and I arrived on the bench.
The reinforced steel door of the main building stands fully open. It has not been broken or forced. The hinges are intact. The door rests at 90 degrees against the exterior wall, held there by its own weight on the bench's slight downhill slope.
The smell issuing from the doorway is layered. Beneath lies old char, the dry mineral smell of burned timber enclosed for years. Over it is something sharper and organic, like the air inside a sealed container filled with dried insects.
Callum says it smells like an old fire store and steps through the doorway.
I follow him.
The interior is one large, open research room. A suspended ceiling of acoustic tiles remains overhead, though approximately half the panels are missing, exposing the structural members and underside of the metal roof.
The visible beams are original timber, burned and never replaced, black and dry. They are coated in the same dense, textured layer as the exterior walls.
Every interior surface is covered: the walls, the remaining ceiling tiles, the steel roof deck exposed through the gaps, the structural members. All four window openings have been sealed from inside with a compressed mass of dark, fibrous organic material - frass and debris packed tightly enough to exclude the light.
The floor is clear. Bare plywood, dusty and undisturbed.
A line of bootprints in the dust runs from the doorway to the central workbench and back. They are not ours. One set travels in both directions.
Both lines of impressions face the same way.
At the centre of the room stands a long metal workbench, approximately 2.5 metres by 1 metre, supported on welded steel legs. It still carries instrumentation from the station's active years: a three-cup anemometer on a stand, its cups frozen in place; a Negretti and Zambra barograph, chart paper still wrapped around the drum and the pen arm dry; and an early bank of four Grant Instruments data loggers, their displays dark.
Everything is covered by the same textured layer. On the barograph, it is thick enough to obscure the marks on the chart paper.
Callum moves around the bench methodically, photographing each instrument. He is in his element, composed and efficient, taking images from several angles and checking his exposures.
I remain close to the door.
For approximately two minutes, I have been watching the section of wall in the far corner where the ceiling meets it at a right angle. I have become certain it is moving.
It is not flowing. It is not crawling in any fashion that would register as movement at a casual glance. Each separate component within the dark layer is adjusting its position by a fraction of a millimetre. The whole surface is slowly reconfiguring, the aggregate effect like watching a liquid that is almost, but not entirely, still.
I tell Callum we should leave.
"Give me five more minutes," he says.
He crouches to photograph the bank of data loggers from beneath the workbench surface.
He finds the notebook because he is crouching under the bench and sees one edge protruding from beneath the data loggers. It is a metal-clad Forestry Commission field notebook, its green canvas-covered boards protected from the surface growth by the weight of the equipment stacked over it.
He pulls it free and opens it.
He reads the first page, and his expression changes. He straightens and hands it to me without speaking.
The notebook belonged to Gareth Pritchard, a wildfire research technician formerly employed in what is now Forestry and Land Scotland's North Region. The entries extend from June to 3 October 2024, nearly a year ago.
The early entries contain technical records: barometric-pressure readings, beetle population-density measurements by transect using a standard quadrat methodology, and notes on the structural condition of the building's timber frame. Gareth came to Whitmore Station in his own time, drawn by what he described in the entry for 14 June 2024 as a casual academic interest in documenting what he assumed was a normal post-fire beetle succession within an undisturbed structure.
By August, the entries had changed. He had begun to understand that the colony's density was not normal.
His entry for 22 August 2024 estimated the exterior population at between 35 and 50 million individuals, based on extrapolation from the occupied surface area.
On 30 August 2024, he recorded that the colony entered a synchronised resting state during daylight hours, rendering individual beetles visually indistinguishable from the charred timber they covered. He wrote that he had spent 40 minutes looking directly at one section of wall before understanding what he was seeing.
By September, the register of the entries was different.
Gareth documented that the colony had sealed all four window openings from inside with compressed frass and debris. The work had been systematic and, by his estimate, completed over several weeks.
He also recorded a swarming event triggered when a red deer hind wandered onto the bench one evening. The swarm was instantaneous and total. It lasted approximately three minutes. By morning, the hind was no longer on the bench.
The entry dated 18 September 2024 reads: "I do not know what the trigger threshold is. I know it involves barometric pressure. They begin to shift before the barograph moves. I think they also respond to heat signatures.
"I have been keeping very still."
The entry dated 29 September 2024 reads: "I have been here too long. The door is the problem. I do not know what happens if I move through the door when the pressure is falling."
The final entry, dated 3 October 2024, reads: "Barometric pressure falling. They react before the instruments register it. I think they have been reacting to me for days.
"I am not going to be able to walk out of here."
I read the final line and look up from the notebook.
The wall nearest me is still. It is not shifting gradually. It is not reconfiguring. It is completely and absolutely still.
The stillness has a character. It is the result of something having stopped, not of something that never began.
I look at Callum. I look at the open door behind him, the rectangle of pale September sky and the distance from where I stand to the door frame: approximately 4 metres.
"Callum," I say. "We need to move now. Towards the door. No sudden movements."
He reads my face and does not argue. He puts the notebook into his pocket.
We begin moving towards the doorway in careful, measured steps, side by side.
We are approximately 4 metres from the door when the Peak Design Slide strap on Callum's camera catches on the near corner of the workbench. The strap snags. Callum pulls against it instinctively, and the bench shifts across the plywood floor with a short, flat scrape of metal.
Less than 3 centimetres of movement. Less than one second of sound.
Every surface in the room erupts simultaneously.
The beetles lift from the walls, ceiling, door frame, workbench and window seals - from every surface at once.
The transition from stillness to motion is instantaneous and total.
The air turns black.
The sound is dense and mechanical.
A roar with no gaps in it.
A sound with physical pressure. I felt them striking my jacket. My hands, my face. Individual impacts.
Each one was a sharp, precise point. The combined sensation was like standing in horizontal sleet charged with static electricity. I could not see anything. I could not see the door.
I reached towards Callum's voice. He said my name once, flat and controlled.
"Martin."
My hand found the fabric of his jacket sleeve. I did not let go. I ran.
I ran with my eyes shut because opening them made no difference. My left shoulder struck the door frame hard enough for me to feel it in my teeth. Then we were through, across the station bench and up the access track.
Both of us were running. Both of us were beating at our clothes, hair and faces with our free hands. I still had hold of Callum's sleeve. The swarm did not follow beyond the edge of the bench.
It drew back towards the building as abruptly as it had erupted. For a moment, the black cloud thinned at the edge of the track, as though it had encountered a boundary. Then the sound fell from a roar to nothing and the air cleared. We were 10 metres beyond the gate.
I realised I had not released Callum's sleeve. I let go. Callum checked himself methodically, beginning at his head and working down. His jacket was intact.
There were several small red points on his left cheekbone. Nothing open. He pushed up his right jacket sleeve and examined his forearm. The skin had been exposed from the wrist to halfway up the forearm, where the sleeve had ridden back as we ran.
A close-packed oval of small red marks covered the skin, approximately 10 centimetres long and 7 centimetres wide.
Callum counted them aloud.
His voice was steady. Ninety-four. Exactly 94 small, precise punctures. A single dark drop of blood welled from each one.
They were not stings. There was no raised skin around the marks, no inflammation yet. They were not bites. They were punctures.
Each was clean and circular. The pattern was so regular that it appeared deliberate. The blood from every one of them was dark and slow. It was not clotting.
I looked at Callum's arm, then back down the access track towards the main building. Every exterior surface was covered by the dark layer. As I watched, the whole building rippled once. A single, slow, coordinated wave passed from the roofline to the foundations and back again.
It was like the visible pulse of something breathing. Then it became motionless. The building was still. The bench was still.
There was no sound at all. I thought about the boot prints in the dust. The line from the door to the workbench and back. One set travelling in both directions.
Both impressions faced the same way - towards the table and away from the table. Whoever had made them had walked in and walked back out. The door was open because someone had left it open from inside.
I did not say this to Callum. I said nothing. I turned away from the building and began walking up the access track towards the saddle. We passed through the gate, with its new Abloy padlock and bright galvanised fixings, without stopping.
I did not look back at the building again. The bench behind us remained completely silent. The walk back to the Hilux took two hours. The sky to the west had changed while we were inside. What had been clear September blue was now flat grey.
The kind of grey that sits low and does not move. The light had changed with it. Everything looked colder. The temperature was falling, and I could feel it through my jacket.
There was a pressure in the air that meant the low system had arrived. We walked without speaking. Before setting off, Callum had wrapped his right forearm in gauze from the Hilux's first-aid kit. By the time we reached the ridge above the deer gate, a dotted pattern was already showing through it.
Ninety-four small circles marked the white gauze, each dark where the blood had found its way to the surface. I kept my eyes on the track and tried not to look at his arm. When we reached the Hilux, Callum opened the driver's door and climbed in without asking. I did not argue.
My hands were shaking so badly that I could not have held the steering wheel if I had tried. I got into the passenger side, pulled the door shut and sat there while Callum started the engine and selected a gear. He drove one-handed. His right forearm rested on his knee, the sleeve pushed back so the gauze would not adhere to the fabric.
The punctures remained visible through the white dressing. Each was a small, dark point, and I could see the blood spreading slowly as it soaked through. He did not talk about his arm. He talked about Gareth Pritchard: whether anyone had reported him missing, whether Forestry and Land Scotland had sent anyone to look for him, and what the replacement padlock implied about who knew of the station and when they had last visited it.
He was working through it as someone trained to manage emergencies works through things. Step by step, fact by fact. I understood that this was how he was holding himself together. I did not interrupt.
The Hilux ground along the unmaintained forestry track in low gear, its tyres crunching over granite chips and broken schist. The low ridges around Lochindorb were behind us now. The loch itself was hidden to the south. The sky remained grey, the temperature continued to fall, and I watched heather, blaeberry and bog myrtle pass the window while thinking about the notebook in Callum's jacket pocket.
The boot prints in the dust on the plywood floor. One set going in and coming back out. Both sets facing the same direction. Someone had walked in and walked back out.
The door had been standing open because someone had left it open from inside. I did not say that to Callum. At the deer gate where the forestry track met the walkers' access point, Callum stopped the Hilux and reached for the Garmin inReach Mini 2 clipped to its dashboard mount. He switched it on and we waited for a satellite fix.
It took four minutes. The device gave a single beep when the fix was confirmed. Callum unclipped it and handed it to me.
"Send the check-in to Mum," he said.
His voice remained steady. "Just the standard check-in. Nothing else. She'll contact Police Scotland if she doesn't get the one o'clock message, and they can alert mountain rescue. You don't want to explain this over a satellite messenger."
I took the device and typed two lines.
We're fine. Heading back to camp.
I pressed send and watched the screen until it confirmed delivery, then handed the Garmin back to Callum. He returned it to the mount and put his hands on the wheel. I took my mobile phone from my jacket pocket.
There was no signal, but I did not need one. I opened the notes application and stared at the empty screen for a moment. Then I began to write. I am an insurance loss adjuster.
I know what documentation looks like. I know the cost of not having it. I recorded the site designation.
Whitmore Station.
Decommissioned Forestry Commission fire-weather and peat-drying research station. Remote saddle east of Lochindorb, within the Highland council area. I recorded the security hardware.
Abloy PL362 high-security padlock, new or recently replaced, attached with bright galvanised fixings to posts several decades old. I recorded the laminated notice.
Warning: Structural integrity compromised. Unstable ground. No entry.
I recorded the notebook. Metal-bound field notebook. Forestry Commission issue.
Green canvas over a metal cover. Belonged to Gareth Pritchard, wildfire research technician. Entries from June to 3 October 2024. I transcribed Pritchard's final entry exactly.
I read it from the photograph I had taken of the page before we left the building.
Barometric pressure dropping. They react before the instruments register it. I think they have been reacting to me for days.
I am not going to be able to walk out of here.
I recorded the dimensions of the wound pattern on Callum's forearm. Oval, approximately 10 centimetres long and 7 centimetres wide. I recorded the count: 94 punctures.
I recorded the time of the swarming event: approximately 10.45 am on 23 September 2025. I recorded the direction of the swarm's retreat towards the main building. It did not follow beyond the edge of the station bench.
It withdrew as though encountering a boundary. I wrote everything in the plain, factual language of a claims document. That was the language I had for this. The only language that allowed me to look at it without the edges becoming soft.
Writing it that way was the only means by which I could make myself believe it had happened. That I was sitting in a Hilux on an unmaintained forestry track about 18 kilometres from a surfaced road, with my brother's arm still bleeding and a dead man's notebook in his jacket pocket. Beneath the factual record, I opened a new section and wrote in a different register.
Eighteen months earlier, I had handled a public-liability claim involving a Forestry and Land Scotland contractor who had reported an anomalous beetle infestation at another closed site in the North Region.
The claim had been denied. Unauthorised voluntary entry into a clearly signed exclusion area. The exclusion area in that claim had been marked by a laminated notice citing unstable ground. I had not thought about that claim in 18 months.
I was thinking about it now. Someone knew exactly what was at Whitmore Station. Someone knew precisely what wording to use to keep people away without creating a public record. A replacement padlock on a gate several decades old was not the action of an organisation that had forgotten the station existed.
I stopped typing and stared at the screen. I did not know whether Gareth Pritchard had walked out of the main building in October 2024. The door had been standing open when we arrived. Pritchard's final entry said he did not think he would be able to walk out.
Those two facts did not resolve each other in any direction I was willing to examine directly. I closed that section of the notes. I began another and set out what I would file and what I would not.
Cause of loss field: structural and biological hazard, uncontrolled infestation, unauthorised voluntary entry into a posted exclusion area.
I would attach photographs of Callum's wounds. I would attach the wound count. I would not attach the notebook. The notebook belonged to a man who might or might not be accounted for.
Attaching it would mean explaining where it had been and how it came into my possession. The moment I explained that, the claim would become something other than a claim. I knew how matters moved through a system. I knew which details caused a file to be read carefully and which allowed it to be processed and closed.
I put the phone back in my jacket pocket. Callum selected a gear and we started north along the forestry track. The track climbed towards the ridge, and the Hilux laboured in low gear. Neither of us spoke. The grey sky pressed down, and the moor on either side looked darker than it had on the way in.
The heather and bog myrtle were colourless in the flat light. I looked at Callum's arm. The gauze was completely soaked through now. He did not seem to notice.
His eyes were on the track, his hands steady on the wheel, his breathing even. The track levelled as we reached the ridge and began descending towards the A939. The ride became slightly smoother. The gravel beneath the tyres was finer and less broken, and the Hilux stopped lurching across exposed stone.
I looked through the window at the receding ridge. The saddle where Whitmore Station stood was hidden now behind low granite and schist ridges. The sky above it was the same flat grey as everywhere else. I thought about the ripple I had seen travel across the building before I turned away.
One slow pulse, like something exhaling. I did not record it.
Callum turned the Hilux onto the surfaced two-lane road of the A939, heading north-east. The ride smoothed out and the upper River Findhorn drainage opened on our left, wind-shaped birch showing yellow in the September light. The Highland moor spread away on either side.
I watched through the passenger window as peat hags, heather and scattered Scots pine extended towards the low horizon. The pale, exposed shingle and peat margins of Lochindorb showed in the distance, while the Dava Moor escarpment and the ridges we had left behind receded to the south and grew smaller with every kilometre. The low-pressure system had settled completely. The sky was flat and grey, without depth, and the light was even and cold.
The loch below resembled a long strip of grey paper laid across the moor. Its pale shore was almost the same colour as the sky. Without slowing, Callum peeled the saturated gauze from his forearm. He studied the punctures for a long moment, his expression calm and intent.
The wounds remained open. They were still weeping. Each was a dark, precise point, the blood emerging slowly and steadily. He began to count them aloud again, not for my benefit.
"Ninety-four," he said when he had finished.
The number had not changed. It remained 94. It was going to remain 94.
He wrapped his arm in a fresh strip of gauze from the first-aid kit, pulling it more tightly this time, methodical and efficient. Then he placed both hands on the wheel and continued driving. He said nothing more about the count. He did not need to.
I looked at his arm and at the clean white gauze, where faint spots of colour were already appearing as the blood found its way through. Then I looked back out of the window. I thought about the ripple I had seen move across the building's surface just before we ran. One slow, coordinated wave that had travelled from the roofline to the foundations and back again, like watching something take a breath.
I thought about what it meant that the door had been standing open when we arrived. I thought about the boot prints in the dust on the floor. One set travelling in both directions. Both sets facing the same way - towards the table and away from it - which meant that whoever had made them had walked in and walked back out, which meant the door was open because someone had left it open from inside.
I had already decided not to write that down. I had considered it in the same way I consider a detail on a claim form that does not fit the narrative, and I had decided it would not enter the document. Now I sat with that decision and carried it forwards. I thought again about the claim I had handled 18 months earlier.
The Forestry and Land Scotland contractor who had reported an anomalous beetle infestation at another closed North Region site. The claim had been denied on the grounds of unauthorised voluntary entry into a posted exclusion area. The exclusion area in that file had been marked with a laminated notice citing unstable ground. The same wording we had seen beneath the faded Forestry Commission closure notice at Whitmore Station.
I thought about the new padlock and the bright galvanised fixings against the dark wood of the gateposts. Someone had travelled to a station officially closed in 1993, on an unmaintained forestry track in the Highland council area, at some point during the previous few months. They had replaced the lock, returned the way they had come and created no public record of the visit. I thought about the kind of person who does that, what they know and what they have decided not to say. I thought about Gareth Pritchard.
The methodical entries from June 2024, documenting the density of Pyrocharis tenebris with the calm precision of a man who believed he was recording a footnote no one would ever read. The August counts that kept rising. The September entries that changed register as he began to understand what he was seeing. The final entry.
Barometric pressure dropping. They react before the instruments register it. I think they have been reacting to me for days.
I am not going to be able to walk out of here.
His notebook had still been beneath the Grant Instruments data loggers when we found it. The door had been standing open. Those two facts did not resolve each other in any direction I was willing to examine directly.
I had already made that decision as well.
Callum spoke without taking his eyes from the road. "We should stop in Grantown-on-Spey. Get the arm seen to."
"Yes," I said.
That was the whole conversation. We drove. The outskirts of Grantown-on-Spey came into view after another twenty minutes: low buildings, pitched roofs and the junction leading into the town.
Callum slowed as we approached. I looked at his right forearm resting against the steering wheel. The fresh gauze was already showing a dotted pattern. Every one of the 94 punctures was finding its way to the surface.
Slow, dark and patient, as though they were not finished yet. I watched it for a long moment, then turned back to the Highland landscape passing outside. I thought about Margaret receiving the standard check-in on her phone, a single green point on the Garmin tracking map moving towards Grantown-on-Spey. Everything normal.
She had asked us to go somewhere together, to remain in the same place for longer than an afternoon. We had done that. The dispute over her Inverness house was still unresolved. It would still not be discussed when we returned to Inverness.
That was the same as it had been before the trip. It was also not the same. I did not yet know what the difference was.
Callum drove into Grantown-on-Spey and pulled the Hilux into the gravel car park outside the minor injuries unit, the only building nearby with its lights on. A faded sign stood at the entrance. He put the Hilux in neutral, applied the handbrake and switched off the engine.
He sat for a moment, looking at his forearm. Then he said it again.
"Ninety-four."
Not to me. Not to anyone. Only the number, spoken aloud. He opened his door and got out.
I remained in the passenger seat for a moment after his door had closed. I took the mobile phone from my jacket pocket and opened the notes application. I looked at what I had written.
The claims language. The factual record. The site designation, the padlock hardware, the wound count and Gareth Pritchard's name. I scrolled to the foot of the document, beneath the last line I had typed. The cursor blinked there, waiting. I did not type anything.
I closed the application and returned the phone to my pocket. I got out of the Hilux. The door shut behind me with a solid mechanical sound belonging to the world of vehicles, gravel car parks and small-town medical units with their lights on in the early afternoon.
The Highlands were quiet around me. No wind, no sound of insects, only the stillness of late September on the edge of the Dava Moor. The kind of stillness that asks nothing of you. Callum was already walking towards the entrance, his right sleeve pushed up and the gauze on his forearm darkened by 94 points, each one slow and patient, like something waiting.
I did not look back towards the southern ridges. I followed my brother inside.